Tag Archives: cars

Z-28 Ignition Problems A No Money Easy Fix

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5.7 L Z-28 Cleaning the Distributor and Not replacing it?

As most anyone driving the GM Z-28 Camaro with the 5.7 L engine knows the GM Distributor is located in front of the engine and when it gets wet it causes a lot of problems and finally a no start condition. I just had 1994 Camaro Z-28 leak water from a pin hole and then the distributor got wet and that was it, it started to run bad, jerking, spitting, barking and then stopped running just as I hit the end of the driveway.

I pressure tested the water system and found a pin hold in a coolant return line on the top right side of the engine, I fixed the leak. I attempted to start it but failed. I knew the ignition got wet and had to do what most don’t like to do and that is, just get into it and get it over with. It took me 5 hours, I’m old and slow and getting slower at something’s, not to mention I ache a lot.

My first thought was darn it the location of the engine distributor was not thought out well when it was designed into the engine and will place a lot of people in a bad spot if it get wet as a lot of them do just like I did.

The Ignition Distributor is on the front of the engine on a 5.7 L engine. It sits behind the front crankshaft harmonic balancer and water pump. These two parts have to be removed to get the distributor off along with a few other parts like the fans, hoses, electrical connectors and coil as well as the AIR Pump and belt. It is not a hard job to do but it is time consuming.

FYI, the Distributor runs off the water pump drive gear and that runs off the cam gear connected by chain to the crank gear. If you do this repair be sure to check the water pump for leaks or noise, a cheap part to replace and can save you from an unnecessary repair.

If the ignition gets wet it will make the car start to run bad, then worst, then not at all. So if you remove the distributor don’t spend hundreds of dollars and buy a new part, this one can be fixed unless up break it taking it apart, here is how.

After you remove all the parts and get the Distributor off the engine and on the bench your ready to fix it all in just a few minutes without buying any parts.

First wipe the outside of the part clean with a rag, if the nipple of the distributor cap is damaged you will need to replace it if not here is how you fix it to run again as if it never got wet. A used distributor can be used off another module if you have one but I think I read a new one is around $30.00 check your local auto part stores.

Now that you have removed the distributor from the engine and it’s on the bench and cleaned.

There are four inverted thorx head screws that has to be removed, I could not find a tool to fit the screw head bolts so I used a 3inch thorx head screw from the hardware store stick that screw you get from the hardware store upside down and with a pair of vice grips hold it then unloosen the four screws from the distributor cap and place them on the side.

Next be gentle and lift the distributor cap off the Control Module and turn it over. Most likely it will be wet with water so I used an air hose to blow dry mine, if you don’t have air use a rag to dry it out, and be sure it is very dry. If it is not wet your control module may be shorted, if that is the case you will need to have it tested before you replace it. Be sure if it is dry to check all the wire connectors for continuity and looseness as well as breaks before buying a new control module. The junk yard I am sorry to say, is full of Z-28s and the parts will likely work if you match the car you’re working on for the parts thus saving you money. If it is wet continue to clean the cap.

Also while the cap is off scrap the tips of each contact, a small flake will drop off, that’s burned carbon build-up on those points.  Cleaning those contact point and rotor tip will make better contact when you restart it. If you observed you will see a seal that is around the housing, if it breaks and mine did. I used some RTV Red, a very fine coat on the gasket both sides to hold it to the part and to stop any water intrusion if leaks water on it, this RTV will not hurt anything and will seal the cap to the distributor control module.

I can’t say this will work on all engines but it work perfect on mine, it cost me a few hours of my time over a few days, I can only work a little at a time. On average I think anyone willing to try and do this repair will be able to do it in a less than 5 hours and save as much as $800.00 or more in parts and labor, you will need one special tool you can get from an auto parts store for around $25.00 it’s called a Harmonic Balance Puller. Good luck and GOD bless all.

 

 

Car issues that may force you into Small Claim Court.

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Going to small claims court is not a fun experience, especially when the other side is more prepared for trial than you are. How do you get prepared for trial? Here is a story of a person who was in an accident because the bolts that hold a part on broke. The part that was held on has a Recall on it from the NHTSA department. The bolts that hold that Recall part on, is what broke and caused an accident. The customer did not cause the accident but his repairs were dropped anyway because he was blamed for the accident not by law but by the dealership he trusted.

I recently had a Small Claim appearance for a customer who had purchased a new truck back in 2003 and took good care of it on regular bases.  The story I will tell you is about an accident he has because of a defective part that has a Recall on it. My customer had to file a Small Claim complaint to get satisfied. By the way the Small Claims Court can be used for car repairs, body damage even Diminished Value or actually anything between two or more people.

Back in 2010 he had an accident and totaled out the truck. First I will tell you about the accident. I will tell you about the process you will need to take in order to prepare for court in hope to get the results you want. When you actually go to court in front of a Judge to explain why you are there you need to be prepared, I will give you detail instruction later in the story.

When I met my customer he stated he was having problem and did not know where or who to turn to, he was not from America and only liver here for a short time and his English is very broken.  I ask what happened and if he had an attorney. He said no and he did not know much about what to do. He did as his Insurance Company told him to do. His passenger was hurt and the Insurance Company took care of him. But the owner is still without a truck or transportation and needs help.

He contacted three Personal Injury attorneys and sent them all his paper work and they all stated he waited too long to do anything and he was not hurt. He was advised to file for damages in Small Claims Court and so he did that, and did it just in time. It is my understanding you have one year to file your claim.

My customer found me at my web site lemonprotection.com. He called me and asks me to do an inspection and attempt to determine the cause of the accident so I accepted the job. I ask exactly what happened when he was driving, what speed he was going, what lane he was in, was the truck making any noise, did he feel anything unusual vibration. These are question you need to be able to answer in court if it is based on an accident filing.

He stated he was running around 65/70 mph in the car pool lane, he stated the truck started to vibrate the front dropped down and he hit the wall and that was it. He stated the Air Bags did not go off when he hit the wall. I ask how the road condition was, were you going straight or was the road curved. He said the road was straight and flat with good condition, what lane was you in when this happened? Here are more questions you need to know and be able to answer as well.

The police came and had the vehicle towed, later it was moved to the dealership for inspection as recommended by his insurance company. The dealership inspected the truck and said the lower ball joint did not come apart as the NHTSA Recall was issued for. He was told the dealership does not have to fix the truck. He responded you have a Recall on that part and they stated the recall is not the part that broke, but the bolts that hold that part on are what broke. How dumb does that sound? The Recall NHTSA # is for the lower ball joint but it was his fault for the accident because the bolts broke instead of the ball joint it is holding.

His insurance refused to fix the truck based on their finding saying it was his fault that caused the accident.

I was ask to do an inspection and attempt to determine what happened and if possible what caused the accident. I went to the client home and photo the truck from every direction. I paid close attention to the impact area and the steering and suspension parts based on his explanation.

Upon inspection I found the lower control arm bolts have broken off leaving one extended ½ an inch indicating loose bolts and the bolt head popped off leaving the stud.

The inside steering knuckle at the backing plate held the truck up as it spun around and the hit the wall.  When the right front wheel folding under it caused the truck to spin around and hit the wall with the right front of the truck. This spin around impact caused the right front tire to get punctured and blow out but there was no wheel damage.

The right rear was also damaged from the truck after impact to the right front area, the truck continued to bounce back and around causing the rear right side impact. The truck was traveling North bound and hit the right front corner and appeared to be traveling from the South bound direction. This was caused by the lower control arm bolts breaking off and the wheel folding under as it did.

It was our turn to stand before the Honorable Judge. The other side presented their evidence attacking the owners because he did not use the dealership for maintenance and repairs. I was called in to tell what I witnessed. I first had to prove I am an ASE Certified professional and also proved I have an Appraisal certificate and that I did.

I then proceeded to explain how I did my inspection and I had photos to prove it. I explained how the accident happened and was very clear in every detail.

The Judge asks me how about the tire the other side stated that blow out and caused the accident because it was bald. I said your Honor that cannot happen; he was on flat dry straight road. The tire blows out at the point of impact by the bumper gouging the tire causing tire blowout, he was not in rain or in a curve. The Judge ask me about all the tires being slick, I ask to see opposing counsel photo they had and explained the tires have some tread on them but not slick as the other side is stating. I also explained the 3/8 steel bolts don’t sheer off from an impact and the other side Technician stated he has seen hundreds of bolts at that place sheer off because of impact. I told the Judge that is not true and he knows that because the other parts related are not damaged as he attempted to say.

Going to court and here is what you will need;

1)     Information on vehicle

2)     Date of accident or issue

3)     Place of accident

4)     Illustration or photos

5)     Witness if any or Notarized statement from witness if not present

6)     Expert witness if you have one

7)     Report of expert witness if written

8)     What is your complaint

9)     Do you have photos if no get some, if yes bring them, they must be clear and blown up 8/10 if possible to show the damage you are complain about

10)      Get someone you can trust and is certified to inspect your vehicle and is willing to go to court with you. Be sure they witnessed your problem so they can explain the issue you are there for.

11)      Proof of all evidence is your key, you must be able to paint a very clear picture and have documents to prove it, receipts dates and times, phone record and recording. Photos work well in accident damages or repairs. Notes, letters e-mils are all very important.

12)      Explain you story in a very slow step by step review of the event.

13)      When the other side speaking do not over speak that person it will make a difference, it shows animosity, you will get a chance to speak.

14)      Always be polite to a Judge and be respectful as well as dress proper with clean shaven and heir combed, this all make a difference.

15)      The more information your mechanic has about your car and the problems or accident information he has the better he can help describe his finding for court.

You only have one chance and you need to do the best you can. The truth is the one that paints the best picture will likely win, the judge and jury like photo and videos, this gives them something to use to help them decide for you. Good luck and get prepared.

Any question e-mail to lemonprotection@yahoo.com or go to our web site

Lemonprotection.com   and see names of law firms my over 3,500 clients have used for their Lemon Law cases.

NOTE: We are not a law firm and do not give legal advice, this information I am giving is information I have acquired over the years of doing lemon law inspection and going to trial as an expert.

If you need an expert to go with your to court call me. If you need an attorney go to my web site for the list of attorneys over 3500 people have used and been satisfied with.

lemonprotection.com      

Books for lemon law, used car inspection, Identifying a Lemon and Invention from Idea to market.

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 I have been a certified mechanic for over 32 years and have found a way to help other by way of writing how to books for the lay person. I also wrote a book on invention and how to protect yourself from crooked contracts.

The first book was “Invention from Idea to Market” this book is about an invention I made called “Ab Radical” and is sold by Edison Nation online and in some stores. It is way to help a person do abdominal crunches with ease. It has a back and neck support and helps you do crunches by pulling two handles and crunching just 4 inches or less to isolate the abdominal. It works very well as long as you are willing to endure the time it takes to do crunches. This book will show you what happen to a lady that was unprepared when she wanted to market her invention and was laughed at on a TV show. I will try to help you take the right steps and explain what things you need in place so to better your chances of getting someone to license your product. You don’t wan’t to spend money on making a lot of units when the company you license your product to will start over with their own ideas.

The second book I have written is called “Identifying a Lemon”. This book helps a person know when they have a lemon vehicle and what to look for and then what to do about it. You will learn what the proper way is to protect yourself from the start. You never know if you have a lemon or not but if you do it is better to know how to protect yourself. Why pay all that money for something that is not working to factory standards when you may be entitled to a full refund, replacement vehicle or money compensation. Most lemon law attorneys don’t ask for a fee when they take your case in most states.

The third book I have written is named “How to communicate with your Mechanic”. This book helps you understand how to explain what is going on with your vehicle in time of repairs. This gives the mechanic a better understanding of how to go about finding a fix fore your car or truck problems.

These books can be found on Kindle Book/ Amazon book

If you want to order any of the three book or all three please let me know. For our reraders the set of all three books would cost you $15.00 and will have free shipping in the USA. Each book separate is $7.00 each with free shipping in the USA.

If you have any questions please contact me with a comment and I will respond ASAP.

Thank you for your time and kindness, GOD bless you all.

Jackie Winters

Lemon Protection

Lemonprotection.com

Wind Noise or Boom Box noise when we drive, can anything be done?

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First I will speak about cars you drive. Wind noise is that noise you hear and may describe as a whistle noise or if you’re at high speed and a cross wind come by you may hear a loud groan or a loud boom box noise, on some vehicle (it is said to be a characteristic, not true).

I have found these problems with several new cars and on some new trucks but they can’t seem to get that problem fixed on some of them.

The cause of wind noise around the windows or windshield is the seals are not as tight as they should be but only tight enough to stop noise at low speed.   Most of the time the wind noise seem to be coming from the front doors at the top corner at the windshield and on some cars at the sun roof, a wind noise may be heard as well.

If any of you have ever owned or driven a 1964 Plymouth Fury made by Chrysler you will hear nothing even if a big truck goes by without a muffler, this car was the quietest car ever made in my opinion, funny the new cars and trucks are suppose to be better than the old cars and trucks, makes you wonder what happened?

I have seen service writer place a dollar bill in the door and try to pull it out and if it does not pull out they tell the customer there is nothing wrong with the seal. That may be right as far as the looks of it when you see it but when the door is closed and the seal is suppose to be pressed tight against both sides of the door so it does not leak air at high speeds. The excessive wind noise and loud booming noise is not normal for any vehicle.

At the front windshield when a cross wind is heard and you hear that loud growling sound, a sound that you cannot ignore because of the loudness and the sound it makes.  That wind noise seeming to come at the windshield is caused by a defective seal or the under hood opening at the hinges, this is where the wind travels up the A-Pillar and causes the noise with a cross wind.

I have proven this theory several times by plugging those holes with rags and running the same speed at the same area with cross wind (speeds above 65mph).

The problem is you are told by service they cannot drive over 65mph so we cannot hear anything wrong and your car or truck and it is released without a repair, there are some who has had the service writer or service manager go for a ride with them. When you can prove a problem and they could hear for themselves, then they do seem to get fixed.  Wind noise is not normal and when you purchased the new vehicle you were not told you will get wind noise at high speed because if you were told that you would have likely walked away from the deal.  After several repair attempts are made you may hear from the service writer that the door seals and windshield seals may have been replaced already and that is it, no more repairs because they cannot verify a problem.  The sun roof will also cause a loud whirling sound at high speeds as well and is likely cause by defective seals or improperly installation, I have seen both and water leaked in as well when it rains.   That noise, can’t be fixed unless a Technician is willing to get serious and find the spot causing the problem and then properly fix it.

Now let me speak on the trucks with 4 doors or rear windows in them.  The noise I am speaking about is called a Boom Box Noise. This loud noise only happens when driving your truck at high speed with the two rear windows is ¼ way down.  This is another problem I have witnessed when testing vehicles and the owners had no idea what caused it.   I had an older gentleman with me on a road test and he told me his A/C went out when he and his wife were crossing the Ca desert and it was around 95 degrees.  He told his wife he was going to roll down the windows and did so but the air was so hot is wife complained about it and he rolled up the two front windows and rolled down the two rear windows about ¼ of the way.   The sound heard was ear piercing and he had to roll all the windows back up.  The noise created by the two rear windows rolled down ¼ way is caused by the top of the truck flexing like someone flopping a piece of flat metal on the ground.  This can be fixed but the repair needed is unlikely going to happen.   The reason given to most of my customers is you are suppose to run with the windows up and the A/C on when it is hot, no advice if the A/C goes out if you got to drive.

Weak seals and gaskets make the wind easy for it to come inside and cause the noise you hear.  A bad seal will also let water leak inside as well when it rains hard, water can cause electrical shorts and stop parts from working as well as unseen rusted seams that will rot out.

So what should you do if you got loud wind noise, complain about it to your dealership and demand a fix.  If your dealership says they won’t do anything or cannot do anything about it. They may tell you it is a characteristic of the vehicle and you are left hanging as if it’s your problem and not theirs, and then you need to call an attorney for help.  This wind noise is not normal for any car or truck excluding some convertibles.  I have inspected over 3,500 cars and trucks and have witnessed this problem on several over the years that have had to get attorney help in order to get it solved. Help is available if you need it and the advice is free.

Written by Jackie Winters of lemonprotection.com, I also have several attorneys listed on my web site that my customers have used with great success. Good luck and God bless you.

 

 

 

 

 

Used Vehicle that have been an accident, beware

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In the past I have inspected several like new cars and they all looked like they were well-maintained and never have been in an accident, the inspection proved otherwise. One must be aware that some used-car dealers will buy cars from auto auction, and some of those vehicles have been wrecked and repaired. These cars may never get reported to the police department and therefore do not show up in the Car Fax or Car Check reports.

With the purchase the customer also purchased an extended warranty. He started to have some electrical issue as well as suspension noises soon after. The dealership told the customer the $2,800.00 warranty he/she purchased did not cover the repairs because the repair was related to an accident that occurred before the vehicle was purchased. The customer was told the vehicle has never been in an accident.

I was asked to do an inspection on it and found several area showing damages that had been repaired indicating the vehicle has been in a major accident.

The vehicle which was purchased for $26,000, the person who purchased the car was given a Car Check report and showed to not have been in any accidents and based on that the car was purchased.

The customer wanted to trade the vehicle in and when the dealership inspected the vehicle the y found past accident damage, the dealership turn down the trade in. According to a new Car Fax report given to the customer during a trade in it appeared the vehicle had been in an accident. I later realized the original Car Check report had been cut and pasted together without the section showing the accident part. Someone sold a vehicle under fraud conditions when they made the true Car Check appear to be something it was not.

Used-car dealers’ salesmen know how to talk to car buyers. An inspection from a Trained Technician should always be done on newer used vehicle when the sale seems to be too good to be true.

A salesman may tell the potential buyer, “Look, I like you and want to help you. Although I am not supposed to do this, but I will drop the price a few more hundred dollars to help you.” This is a hook most people fall into. This $26,000 car should have been sold for $13,000, but like I said he was given a discount because the salesman said he likes him. Remember sales person does not know you any better than you know him or her. Sales persons are trained to make you feel like a true friend when in fact all they want is to sell you the vehicle and get that commission; then it’s good-bye and don’t bother me with any car repairs or complaints you have. The truth was the salesman may not have known about the accident damage but it seemed he robbed the customer. The customer had to file a lawsuit that may drag on for months or possible more before he recovers any money at all.

Upon inspection I removed some trim panels and took photos of the places where the rocker panels were and could see it had been hit and improperly repaired. This vehicle’s actual cash value was around $13,000, about half of what the customer paid for it and far less than the value of a good vehicle that was not wrecked. Not to count the loss of the $2,800.00 warranty that would not be honored by any dealership, the customer loses all the way around. The Lemon Law firms I work with may file what is called a “Fraud” case to help you recover the loss if this happens to you. You need to have all your paper work in order when you file.

I have inspected over 3,500 vehicles and have only had to go to trial on 53 cases. The attorney law firms I work with are the best in the business. A wrecked vehicle is also an unsafe vehicle if it was not properly repaired.

If this vehicle that had another side impact at the same side which was improperly repaired, the people on that side of the vehicle will likely die or get severely hurt. When a side center post or rocker panel is replaced, there are specific places that need to be worked on in order to make the vehicle worthy to be on the road again. When a dealership sells a vehicle that has been in an accident, a statement of fact (disclosure) has to be given to the customer so he or she will know about accident.

My recommendation is: have a professional vehicle inspector inspect the vehicle, to see if the damaged areas have been properly repaired or not. If he or she decides to buy the vehicle the chance of getting it insured is unlikely anyway. A vehicle with frame damage has a value drop of at least 50% no matter who repaired the vehicle and the resale of that same vehicle is unlikely, unless it is to a junk yard. My advice is: don’t buy any vehicle that has had a major accident. Get a report from Car Fax and Car Check as well, because one may not show the vehicle was in an accident and it is likely the other will.

If you need a good Lemon Law attorney or a good Personal Injury attorney go to my web site and you will find several attorneys over 3500 of my customers have used all with great success.

Thank you for visiting and tell a friend, GOD bless you.

 

What causes an engine to burn oil?

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Is it normal for an engine to burn oil every 750 to 1000 miles?

Some manufactures seen to think it’s OK for their engine to burn a quart of oil every 750 to 1,000 miles.  I can assure you that oil burning is not normal for any engine and is a smog concern according to the California resources board.

The oil burning you experience may not be seen when driving or sitting steal with the engine running. The amount of oil burned is very small but never the less it is using oil. Over time the oil usage will get worst as the miles increase.

The cost to repair an engine from burning oil is as much as a new vehicle, depending on which vehicle you have purchased.

I have inspected several vehicles with the V-6 and V-8 engine and they were using oil every 750 to 1,000 miles.  The owners have complained to the dealership for the oil burning issue’s, and was told it is normal.  This normally happens after they run an oil consumption test and can’t repair the engine unless it’s completely replaced.

The engine cost can be from several hundred or as much as $10,000.00, this is just for the parts and this does not included the labor to remove and then reinstall the new engine at labor cost starting at $85.00 an hour for as much as $150.00 an hour at most dealers, exotic cars may be much more.

I have also seen this oil burning concern with the 3.8 engine, this person was told it is normal for their engine to burn oil every 750 to 1,000 miles of driving; in fact it was in writing the engine will burn a quart of oil every 750 miles but was not true. The engine should not burn oil any time between oil changes on any engine.

I have also seen very high end vehicle costing over $80,000 dollars to buy and they are having problems using oil every 1,000 miles and the owner is told; the engine burning oil is normal for this engine because it has a Turbo. The replacement engine for the vehicle is over $30,000 dollars (yes over 30K) not to include the over 25 hours of labor at $135.00 to $150 per hour average cost to install it. You might want to think twice before investing in a vehicle that has this oil burning concerns.

What causes an engine to lose or burn or lose oil?

There are several things that will cause abnormal oil usage or burning,

1)    Damaged or worn valve guides

2)    Damaged or worn valve seals

3)    Collapsed, broken or stuck piston rings

4)    Damage pistons

5)    Damage piston walls

6)    Clogged breather valve

7)    Oil leaking from seals and gaskets

Signs of oil burning are usually accompanied by Blue Smoke from the exhaust when it is started or running depending on what part is defective or damaged and how bad the damage is.  Oil leaking can also contribute to excessive oil usage and this is something that will be seen after you park and let the vehicle sit awhile. Most oil leak repairs are fixed by replacing a seal or gasket.

If valve guides are worn blue smoke will be seen when the engine is started, usually after it has run and then sits awhile.

If valve seals are worn or broken blue smoke will be seen when the engine is started, usually after it has run and then sits awhile.

If the piston ring seize, break or collapse in their groove, oil will pass causing the excessive oil burning. Damaged pistons and rings will cause oil burning and excessive blow-by. This will also cause the exhaust smoke to be blue when driving or at idle depending on how bad the oil is leaking past the piston rings or valve guides or seals.

When an engine is using oil it is caused by defective piston, rings or valve parts and the engine will need to be removed and over hauled. It’s a time consuming job and very costly depending on the vehicle.

If you are told the oil burning is normal don’t accept that just because the dealership is telling you. In fact if you call an engine repair shop that rebuilds engine they will tell you when an engine is burning oil it will possible need to be overhauled, that means all intern parts will need to be cleaned and replaced as needed.

The good news is the lemon law applies to all new and used vehicles with a warranty. If you are given the run the engine oil burning is normal, don’t accept that as a final word when help is available at no cost to you in most cases.

I suggest you go to my web site and see some of the attorneys listed that over 3,500 of my customers have used to help them get a full refund or a replacement vehicle and in some cases get some money compensation.  You have nothing to lose by asking for some free advice by some of California best Lemon Law and Personal Injury attorneys.

Keep in mind the Lemon Law applies to all new or used vehicles purchased from a dealership with a warranty and includes Pre-Owned Certified cars and trucks.  The warranties can be negotiated; you must be sure the extended warranty covers free loan car and zero deduction or you will pay for any and all complaints, be careful and be sure to read what is covered before you sign.

Good luck God bless you from Lemon Protection.

 

 

Engine Oil Burning

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Engine problems, adding oil every 700 to 800 miles?

As a mechanic I will explain why an engine will burn oil and why it should not burn oil as well as what to do if it is burning oil. Do you have to add oil; before it time to change it, if the answer is yes then your engine is burning oil and it is not normal. The reason an engine is burning oil is it has an internal leak at the Piston Rings, the Valve Guides or the Valve Seals.

I have had a lot of customers tell me the engine is using oil and they are told by their dealership it is normal for an engine to burn a quart of oil every 700 to 800 miles and not to worry about it, just add oil or come in and we will add the oil for you.

Please know if an engine is using oil even a quart every 700 to 800 miles then you are creating smog and our laws do not take kindly to that. We have strict smog laws because of oil burning vehicle on the road and it is hurting our environment.

If your engine has to have oil added between oil changes then you will need one of three things done and it will require a complete engine teardown. If the Valves Guides or Valve Seals are leaking oil past then into the Piston Cylinder then the cylinder heads will have to be removed and that is at least a 14 hour job on most engines today. This repair requires the cylinder head to be removed and reworked and new guides and seals installed.

If the Piston Rings are leaking oil then you will have to have the engine torn down all way and the Pistons will have to be removed so new Piston and Rings can be replaced and that cost almost as much as a remanufactured engine (USED BUT REBUILT).

I guarantee you if your vehicle is under warranty and the warranty expire you will be told the engine oil burning will have to be fixed. You may say to the service writer I told you I was burning oil every 700 to 800 miles and you told me not to worry about it. Now I am burning two quarts of oil every 1,000 mile and now you are telling me I need a ring job or possible a new engine, so what’s up with that?

What should you do if your engine is burning oil and you can’t seem to get the help you want, call a lemon law attorney and get a professional lemon law expert? I work with the best in the business and I have seen results for my customers. Some have gotten all their money back or a complete replacement vehicle because of this oil burning and other things that can’t seem to be fixed. Don’t let a service writer tell you well the first quart of oil to get burned is normal, do you remember when you first purchased the vehicle if anyone told you the engine will need oil added every 700 to 800 miles. I don’t think anyone can say they were ever told that until after they paid for the vehicle and then had to go to the shop for an oil light or oil pressure warning coming on.

If you need help let me know or go to my web site lemonprotection.com, help is there for you and keep in mind most attorneys don’t charge you to take your case and you will come out ahead. My motto is “We Only Inspect – Not Repair” help is her for you, God bless you.

EXTENDED WARRANTY CONTRACTS…BEWARE

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I want to let all you people who buy new and used car or trucks beware of the warranty you pay for. I just read a warranty I thought was not being sole again because of how crooked it is but low and behold people are still getting Ripped Off. This warranty covers the engine, transmission, steering, suspension and brakes as well as the electrical system, sound good. The catch is it only covers thing that don’t usually break. This person who paid $1,850.00 with a $50.00 deduction had an engine oil leak and it cost her $797.00 to fix it, with a 50.00 deduction.

Later she had a thermostat stick a $20.00 part and a $50.00 deduction but it was covered under warranty. A small hose was broken and the manager told her we will cover this as a goodwill gustier, she still paid the $50.00 deduction, so what a $20.00 part and a few minutes of time. By the way a Goodwill repair is not goodwill because they still get paid, it is not a free repair, and someone pays. The repair in total was only $45.00 anyway.

Please do not buy any warranty from any dealership or car lot unless the warranty says it will cover the things I listed above and the SEAL AND GASKETS. When a seal or gasket breaks it can cause internal wear and if that is the case your warranty is no good anyway if the engine has internal wear and it likely will. You will be told well you should have fixed the leak, sorry but it was your fault and we cannot cover it under warranty. This is a real crooked warranty system that is being sold and I pray before you buy be sure to tell the seller to show you the part that states SEALS AND GASKETES are covered or get up and walk away. His word is no good; some of you may have already found that out the hard way. If a salesman attempt to sell you a warranty ask him/her if it covers everything and if it don’t do yourself a favor and just don’t but the vehicle from that dealership or car lot. Think, if they lie to you when you are trying to buy a good vehicle then they will most likely lie to you in the shop when repair are needed.

This poor lady now had a repair that she was told when she purchased the warranty everything will be covered and she had a $70,000.00 plus car. The sales men are not your friends they do not care about you all they want is your money and then it is “Don’t bother me with your car repairs go to the service department”.

I called a service department at a local dealership and spoke with a finance manager and ask about the warranty as if I were going to buy it, he told me everything is covered. I gave him the name of the warranty and he said yes everything is covered with a $50.00 deduction. My only regret is I cannot publish the name of the warranty or the dealerships that do this but I can and will tell you if the warranty don’t state in writing it covers SEALS AND GASKETS then you are getting ripped off if you buy it.
Please BEWARE OF THE WARRANTYS SOLD BY CAR LOTS AND DEALERSHIPS they in most part are rip offs that don’t cover the thing that cause problems most often. Any question please comment and I will get back to you, God bless and be careful. Lemonprotection.com