Motorhome Inspection New and Used

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I have inspected Motorhomes and 5th Wheels over the last several years and was amazed on what I have found wrong with new and used Motorhomes. Everything from broken parts to lose parts too parts not secured in place, bolts coming out screws stripped out and loose, water leaking at the tanks, water shooting out of the toilet when flushed as high as three feet, gas leaking and parts not connected just to mention a few things.

After years of inspecting Motorhomes and 5th Wheels I thought it was time to let people know about what to look for when making a purchase of a new or used Motorhome.

You would not expect to find things wrong with a brand new Motorhome but the truth is the people working on these are not all trained certified mechanics, some are trained mechanics that find a job with these companies and then start doing what they are told to do. I am sure over time the men or women get better at what they do and in fact make better homes for the customer but still some things are left undone or improperly done because of the time to get them out the door.

I have written a new book on Motorhome Inspection and it cover the home from front to rear inside and out on things you can see and test before purchasing.

Some of my customers have stacks of document of complaints on their Motorhome and the major headaches they have in attempting to get them fixed. I do Lemon Law Inspection on them.

One of my customers had a near accident but a Truck driver behind saw what was happening and he blocked the two lanes next to her to give her time to pull over safely and that allowed her to get out and tie up some of the doors that had just fallen open. The doors fell open during travel because of bent or improperly mounted holding locks.

I have one customer coming out of Arizona and he had just purchased a Brand New Motorhome and less than 100 miles he observed his siding was peeling off, he pulled over and picked up the siding and went to a hardware store and purchased a box of screws and re-secured the siding. He drove to a dealership and they said you did a better job than we did and we can’t make the siding any better for you, you are OK to go. He left a little dazed at what he was told.

I have seen molding falling apart or broken during assembly when the parts should have been replaced but was not. This book I have written will save you a lot of headache and down time if you just take the time to do what I am telling you to do before you sign the contract, a lot of things you may find you can order them to be properly fixed before you take possession. If you take possession and then find things wrong you better be ready for a long hall on the process of getting things fixed that is if you can find an authorized dealership to do the work. I have seen some homes in the shop for as much as three months for a simple repairs because of parts on back order or the shop is just busy  to get to the work needed.

Tell a friend and if you want a copy of my book send me a $20.00 money order or check and I will send you a copy by Priority mail 3 to 5 day delivery.

Thank you and tell a friend.

Jackie Winters

lemonprotection@yahoo.com

2012 -2015 FORD Focus and Fiesta Transmission Problems

 

Does your new Ford Focus jerk, shutter, bump and grind from a stop or when up-shifting?

 

Have you been told by the service department;

 

  • Can’t Duplicate the Concerns
  • No Problem Found
  • You’re not putting it into gear fully
  • We had to re-program the ECM and you will be OK
  • We had to replace the clutch but it is under a Good Will repair

   After you left the shop everything seem to be OK, several days go by and you notice a slight jerking. You call the dealership and you are told;

 

  • We will have to re-program the ECM with a newer version so come back in
  • During the service re-program you are told you need to service the transmission, you agree

You pay for the service and leave thinking alright finally they got it and all seem to be well. A few months go by and you notice the transmission seem to be slipping, at times the engine RPM will race up then drop down and it feel like you’re not moving faster when you accelerate or move slowly.

You call the dealership and tell the service person what’s going on and he tells you to come in as soon as you can. You go to the dealership and after two hours you are told the transmission will have to be replaced because something broke and it will be under warranty.

You feel a sigh of relief thinking now with a new transmission I can move on and forget I ever have to see the shop again. You get your car back and several weeks pass and nothing has happened and you decide to take a long trip using the old highway so to see a lot of small towns.

You are driving several hours in stop and go traffic and you have an overnight stay in a small town. The next morning you get up to continue on your happy drive and as you are pulling out of the Motel lot the car starts to jerk and grind and you say what is going on and feel like your heart dropped out of your chest. You call the dealership and they tell you to bring it in as soon as you can but you’re 75 miles away from them.

They say no worries it will just jerk when you’re pulling away or up shifting so be easy on the gas and you will make it. You start out to the dealership and all seem to be well until you come to the next small town. Just your luck at the last stop out-of-town the transmission starts to slip and grind and then it stops moving, you’re 55 miles away from the dealership and you have to call a tow truck. When you get to the dealership you told some fluid leaked out and you must have hit something in the road. You explode and say I had no problems and there were no fluid leaks when I left this morning. and then the next morning it broke, you told me to drive it to you. Finally the service persons come back and say’s OK we will replace the transmission under a Good Will repairs this time but you must pay for the fluids, not wanting to you agree.

What is a FORD Transmission DPS6 what does it mean and how does it work.

DPS6 means:

D —Dry Dual Clutch

P — Power Shift

6 — 6-speed transmission

S — Synchronized

The transmission is two transmissions in one transmission case using several gears and actuator motors for smother shifting characteristics and reliability. This has not proven to be the case with this transmission, it is not very reliable and there are constant complaints of Jerking, Shuttering on pull always, slipping and grinding.

From understanding this transmission it is my opinion the problems lie in the clutch and pressure system. I have repaired many vehicles over the years and from what I am seeing the clutch system is where the problem is. The one thing that makes me think this is the point of the problem is based on the heat and problem that start after the car is hot.

The transmission works off a double clutch system. The front clutch operates the 1st, 3rd, 5th gears and the rear clutch operates the 2nd, 4th, 6th and R gears. The clutch works off the same drive disk which operate like a brake rotor it gets heat from both sides. Heat causes warpage and in turn warps, warpage will cause vibration and slippage on a clutch. Hopeful FORD will see this and fix the problem.

Is there a current repair for this transmission? Not Yet but it is my understanding FORD is working on a repair fix as we speak, maybe they will see my suggestion.

What can you do if you own one of the FORD Focus or Fiesta or have any make of vehicle with a transmission problem?

You can call a good attorney to help you get a refund, replacement vehicle or your money back which should include your down payment as well and attorney fees paid by the other side when he settles.

The California Law provided for this kind of service and you pay no up-front fees, the fee is paid after you settle. Pass it on if you like it, any question please ask.

On the front page of this web site at the bottom, several Lemon law and Personal Injury attorneys I have worked with over the last 14 years, I have had over 5,000 customers use one of these law firms and I trust each one of them.

Thank you and GOD bless you.

Jackie Winters

“WARNING ADD OIL” or “WARNING GO TO SHOP”

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Have you read what Consumer Report are saying about Oil Consumption?

Consumer Report is saying to add oil between oil changes is not normal.

I have been telling the driver of BMW, Porsche and Audi that very same thing for years, so let me give you some more direction that may help you understand better about oil consumption as well as other question you will want to ask your dealer when buying or getting repairs made.

There are a lot of good thing added to the new vehicle on sale today, the Navigation system with backup and side cameras; the Blue Tooth phone system, the adjustable mirrors, the i-pod features and the heated seats and Turbo Chargers for extra power just to name a few of the additions.

I want to give you some question you should ask in hope to help protect yourself when making a purchase. I will start with the extended warranty and what things to ask for followed by some things you may experience that may be called normal.

First off when the salesperson wants to sell you an extended warranty the cost is negotiable, if they say no, tell them you will go elsewhere to but your vehicle. When you buy that extended warranty be sure it covers SEALS and GASKETS, if that is not in a warranty, it is useless papers. A leaking engine or transmission will cause a warranty to be voided if it is not fixed. If you don’t have that seals and gasket warranty coverage and your engine or transmission goes out you are out of luck on repairs, the warranty will not apply.

Be sure the warranty covers A/C and Electrical Wiring as well and be sure to read all in the contract before you sign it. One rule of thumb is be sure to read anything you ask for and they say is covered, if they say A/C, Electrical, Seals and Gaskets are covered, be sure read it.

ADDING OIL EVERY 750 TO 1000 MILES IS NOT NORMAL FOR ANY VEHICLE.

Another question you need to be concerned about and ask is “Will I have to stop and add additional engine oil between oil changes”. Some of the new High-End vehicle are having to have addition oil added ever 750 to 1,000 miles.

Some oil cost as much as $15 a quart, over the driven miles of a high-end Turbo Charged vehicle of 100,000 miles you may spend as much as $5,000 extra for additional engine oil because of oil burning. If oil is needed you must add it so you don’t burn the engine up, that’s 333 extra quarts of additional oil or 47 oil changes you never got, just because your engine is burning oil. There is one exception of the High End vehicle engine burning oil.

The GM Corvette is a high performance engine and from my experience I have had no Corvette owners ever tell me they have had to add additional oil between oil changes. Other new car dealership are selling high-end vehicle not as powerful as the Corvette and their owners are having to add oil between 750 and 1,000 miles of driving, why, because they are burning oil.

Some of the dealership personal is telling the customers it is normal for the engine to burn oil because of the High Performance Engine runs at higher temperatures. That is the biggest box of crock you will hear, no it is not normal for an engine to burn oil.  One of my customers told me she went into the dealership on average of every 750 miles; she said her “Warning Add Oil” would come on. When she went in they added a quart of oil every time, she was told it is normal and no RO was needed because it was a good will gesture.

A repair order receipt of the free quart of oil they add every time the customer comes in with a “Warning Add Oil” light on should be written up and given.

I have built and worked on thousands of engine over the years and I assure you it is not normal for any vehicles engine to burn oil, high performance or not.

One thing to remind you of and that is on the New and CPO Automobiles and Trucks the lemon law applies to all of them with a warranty. It is up to you the buyer to keep all records when going to get repairs of any kind even if they call it a good will gesture. Vehicle purchased that has passed accident damage is also covered under the Fraud laws and they will apply, if you buy and get the papers later that shows the vehicle was in an accident when you were told it has not, don’t worry you may be covered as well.

If that new or CPO vehicles is having problems with engine oil burning or electronics concerns, the lemon law can be used all at no cost to you the consumer. If an attorney takes your case you will not pay because he will be the one to settle your case, the attorney fees will be included so you don’t have to pay.

I have listed the names of a few attorneys that a lot of my customers have used for their cases over the years and have been settled to their satisfaction.

To remind you, I am not an attorney but work with attorney law firms as their Technical expert and have been used in trial 45 time and deposition over 500 times and have never been impeached. I am not qualified to give legal advice and do not give legal advice.

Good Luck and if you have any question please ask, tell a friend.

Z-28 Ignition Problems A No Money Easy Fix

5.7 L Z-28 Cleaning the Distributor and Not replacing it?

As most anyone driving the GM Z-28 Camaro with the 5.7 L engine knows the GM Distributor is located in front of the engine and when it gets wet it causes a lot of problems and finally a no start condition. I just had 1994 Camaro Z-28 leak water from a pin hole and then the distributor got wet and that was it, it started to run bad, jerking, spitting, barking and then stopped running just as I hit the end of the driveway.

I pressure tested the water system and found a pin hold in a coolant return line on the top right side of the engine, I fixed the leak. I attempted to start it but failed. I knew the ignition got wet and had to do what most don’t like to do and that is, just get into it and get it over with. It took me 5 hours, I’m old and slow and getting slower at something’s, not to mention I ache a lot.

My first thought was darn it the location of the engine distributor was not thought out well when it was designed into the engine and will place a lot of people in a bad spot if it get wet as a lot of them do just like I did.

The Ignition Distributor is on the front of the engine on a 5.7 L engine. It sits behind the front crankshaft harmonic balancer and water pump. These two parts have to be removed to get the distributor off along with a few other parts like the fans, hoses, electrical connectors and coil as well as the AIR Pump and belt. It is not a hard job to do but it is time consuming.

FYI, the Distributor runs off the water pump drive gear and that runs off the cam gear connected by chain to the crank gear. If you do this repair be sure to check the water pump for leaks or noise, a cheap part to replace and can save you from an unnecessary repair.

If the ignition gets wet it will make the car start to run bad, then worst, then not at all. So if you remove the distributor don’t spend hundreds of dollars and buy a new part, this one can be fixed unless up break it taking it apart, here is how.

After you remove all the parts and get the Distributor off the engine and on the bench your ready to fix it all in just a few minutes without buying any parts.

First wipe the outside of the part clean with a rag, if the nipple of the distributor cap is damaged you will need to replace it if not here is how you fix it to run again as if it never got wet. A used distributor can be used off another module if you have one but I think I read a new one is around $30.00 check your local auto part stores.

Now that you have removed the distributor from the engine and it’s on the bench and cleaned.

There are four inverted thorx head screws that has to be removed, I could not find a tool to fit the screw head bolts so I used a 3inch thorx head screw from the hardware store stick that screw you get from the hardware store upside down and with a pair of vice grips hold it then unloosen the four screws from the distributor cap and place them on the side.

Next be gentle and lift the distributor cap off the Control Module and turn it over. Most likely it will be wet with water so I used an air hose to blow dry mine, if you don’t have air use a rag to dry it out, and be sure it is very dry. If it is not wet your control module may be shorted, if that is the case you will need to have it tested before you replace it. Be sure if it is dry to check all the wire connectors for continuity and looseness as well as breaks before buying a new control module. The junk yard I am sorry to say, is full of Z-28s and the parts will likely work if you match the car you’re working on for the parts thus saving you money. If it is wet continue to clean the cap.

Also while the cap is off scrap the tips of each contact, a small flake will drop off, that’s burned carbon build-up on those points.  Cleaning those contact point and rotor tip will make better contact when you restart it. If you observed you will see a seal that is around the housing, if it breaks and mine did. I used some RTV Red, a very fine coat on the gasket both sides to hold it to the part and to stop any water intrusion if leaks water on it, this RTV will not hurt anything and will seal the cap to the distributor control module.

I can’t say this will work on all engines but it work perfect on mine, it cost me a few hours of my time over a few days, I can only work a little at a time. On average I think anyone willing to try and do this repair will be able to do it in a less than 5 hours and save as much as $800.00 or more in parts and labor, you will need one special tool you can get from an auto parts store for around $25.00 it’s called a Harmonic Balance Puller. Good luck and GOD bless all.