Did your Attorney tell you about DIMINISHED VALUE?

What would you do if you found someone owed you thousands of dollars would you ask for it?

Was the Diminished Value included when you signed the release of Liability?

I think the answer to the first question is “Yes” and the second is “NO” and are the same answer as everyone else has. You can make a change.

These questions are related to cars and trucks that have been in an accident, repaired and then returned to the customer with the loss of unseen value.

As a legal expert witness for Lemon Law, Fraud and Appraisals I can speak in full truth about the money I am speaking about and that is the loss of value you get when your car or truck has been in an accident, repaired and then returned to you with nothing said about the loss of value owed to you.

The vehicle is towed to a shop and then repaired according to what the Insurance wants to pay. If it is cheaper to Total Out your vehicle then it is Totaled Out whether you like it or not. Some high-end vehicle will pass the Maximum Allowable Damage and get repaired so that amount will pass. They do this with the body shops getting Estimates of repairs, the estimate of repairs will show what work need to be done.

This is supposed to be followed up by a secondary estimate of repairs and should never have a third or fourth estimate of repairs but some do. This third and or fourth estimate of repairs will make the loss of value over the Maximum Allowable Damage amount to be exceeded but because all the work has already been started, the repairs are approved and you lose even more.

This is made possible by the Insurance appraiser and the body shop. After the repairs have been approved the vehicle is repaired then returned to the owner.

By the way you will not see any estimate of repairs until the job is done and you get the vehicle back. You will have to ask for a copy of those and be sure to ask for a copy of all estimates of repairs made, it is your right to have a copy.

When your vehicle is returned to you and although it may look like it did before, beware there are unseen damages you may not be able to see. These unseen damages may not show you for some time down the road, you don’t want problems to sneak up on you.

First if the vehicle was in a major accident where it sustained Frame or heavy body damages such as the roof, A/B/or C pillars or the rocker panels have damages and had to be straightening or replaced, watch out. This means the body and frame alignment will be off because it is bent, twisted, crushed, ripped or torn. With this kind of damages it is most likely the tires will by your first sign showing abnormal wear within the first year and wear sooner as the years pass by. If it is body pillars or the roof, water leaks and wind noise is most likely with possible shorts in wiring that was not seen during a repair or replacement part.

The vehicle can never be put back to original position as it was when it left the factory and this is where the loss starts.

Where is the loss of value?

When you go to trade or sell the vehicle. A Car Fax or Car Check company will have a copy of the police report showing the vehicle was in an accident, Dealerships will not take a vehicle in trade when Car Fax or car Check is showing an accident. If you sell it on a private sell and the buyer knows it was in an accident he will want to pay up to 50% less than Blue Book Values.

If you sell a vehicle that was in an accident and you did not disclose that accident damages to the buyer. You have broken the law and you can be made pay everything back for the vehicle and possible more if he or she contacts an attorney.

What Can a Person Do to Get That MONEY?

Make sure if your vehicle is getting repaired, inform your attorney you want Diminished Value separate from your Personal Injury Claim so he will know to be asking for it separate from the personal injury claim.

  • Make sure he knows how to get that Money for you and tell him you have a company that is willing to work with him or her and is able to give Expert Witness testimonial to the loss of value with a strong foundation.

You will need a Diminished Value report and at Lemon Protection I writes those kinds of reports, they have been approved by several courts, I also work with several law firms that will pursue Diminished Value for you.

Go to my web site front page and at the bottom and side, there I have listed the names of several of California’s best attorneys for Personal Injury and Lemon Law. They will answer your questions free.

If this information has helped you, please pass it on and tell a friend.

Thank you and GOD bless you,

Jackie Winters

Lemon Protection

 

 

Z-28 Ignition Problems A No Money Easy Fix

5.7 L Z-28 Cleaning the Distributor and Not replacing it?

As most anyone driving the GM Z-28 Camaro with the 5.7 L engine knows the GM Distributor is located in front of the engine and when it gets wet it causes a lot of problems and finally a no start condition. I just had 1994 Camaro Z-28 leak water from a pin hole and then the distributor got wet and that was it, it started to run bad, jerking, spitting, barking and then stopped running just as I hit the end of the driveway.

I pressure tested the water system and found a pin hold in a coolant return line on the top right side of the engine, I fixed the leak. I attempted to start it but failed. I knew the ignition got wet and had to do what most don’t like to do and that is, just get into it and get it over with. It took me 5 hours, I’m old and slow and getting slower at something’s, not to mention I ache a lot.

My first thought was darn it the location of the engine distributor was not thought out well when it was designed into the engine and will place a lot of people in a bad spot if it get wet as a lot of them do just like I did.

The Ignition Distributor is on the front of the engine on a 5.7 L engine. It sits behind the front crankshaft harmonic balancer and water pump. These two parts have to be removed to get the distributor off along with a few other parts like the fans, hoses, electrical connectors and coil as well as the AIR Pump and belt. It is not a hard job to do but it is time consuming.

FYI, the Distributor runs off the water pump drive gear and that runs off the cam gear connected by chain to the crank gear. If you do this repair be sure to check the water pump for leaks or noise, a cheap part to replace and can save you from an unnecessary repair.

If the ignition gets wet it will make the car start to run bad, then worst, then not at all. So if you remove the distributor don’t spend hundreds of dollars and buy a new part, this one can be fixed unless up break it taking it apart, here is how.

After you remove all the parts and get the Distributor off the engine and on the bench your ready to fix it all in just a few minutes without buying any parts.

First wipe the outside of the part clean with a rag, if the nipple of the distributor cap is damaged you will need to replace it if not here is how you fix it to run again as if it never got wet. A used distributor can be used off another module if you have one but I think I read a new one is around $30.00 check your local auto part stores.

Now that you have removed the distributor from the engine and it’s on the bench and cleaned.

There are four inverted thorx head screws that has to be removed, I could not find a tool to fit the screw head bolts so I used a 3inch thorx head screw from the hardware store stick that screw you get from the hardware store upside down and with a pair of vice grips hold it then unloosen the four screws from the distributor cap and place them on the side.

Next be gentle and lift the distributor cap off the Control Module and turn it over. Most likely it will be wet with water so I used an air hose to blow dry mine, if you don’t have air use a rag to dry it out, and be sure it is very dry. If it is not wet your control module may be shorted, if that is the case you will need to have it tested before you replace it. Be sure if it is dry to check all the wire connectors for continuity and looseness as well as breaks before buying a new control module. The junk yard I am sorry to say, is full of Z-28s and the parts will likely work if you match the car you’re working on for the parts thus saving you money. If it is wet continue to clean the cap.

Also while the cap is off scrap the tips of each contact, a small flake will drop off, that’s burned carbon build-up on those points.  Cleaning those contact point and rotor tip will make better contact when you restart it. If you observed you will see a seal that is around the housing, if it breaks and mine did. I used some RTV Red, a very fine coat on the gasket both sides to hold it to the part and to stop any water intrusion if leaks water on it, this RTV will not hurt anything and will seal the cap to the distributor control module.

I can’t say this will work on all engines but it work perfect on mine, it cost me a few hours of my time over a few days, I can only work a little at a time. On average I think anyone willing to try and do this repair will be able to do it in a less than 5 hours and save as much as $800.00 or more in parts and labor, you will need one special tool you can get from an auto parts store for around $25.00 it’s called a Harmonic Balance Puller. Good luck and GOD bless all.